Overview
This is a mountain covered year round in snow and ice but is a fun peak to practice expedition style mountaineering and skills required to tackle other high altitude peaks (glacier travel, crevasse rescue, ice and rock climbing, fixing lines, acclimatizing, etc.) Chola Mountain is the highest peak in a glaciated range of peaks, many of which are unclimbed.
Chola Mountain is in a remote area and therefore not many teams have climbed it.It was first climbed in 1988 by Mick Fowler.
The route starts by passing Ganhaizi Lake and then ascending to a valley at the base of a large waterfall of glacial melt off and an amphitheater of peaks. Some class 4 scrambling is required to get to the base of the glacier. The glacier itself is large and meanders all the way to the summit of the mountain. July and August are good months to climb because crevasses are generally melted out and visible. The summit ridge is exposed and fixed lines or roped team travel should be considered. Some crevasses are large enough to be climbed into and out of, rather than walking around. A map and photos can be viewed at AAIC although the text is in Chinese.
D1: Meet in Chengdu and drive to Ganzi
D2: Ganzi to Chola Mountain Base Camp (BC)
D3: Chola Mountain Base Camp (BC)
D4: Base Camp (BC) to Camp 1
D5: Camp 1 to Camp 2
D6: Camp 2 to Camp 3
D7: Camp 3 to Summit
D8: Camp One or Base Camp to Ganzi
D9: Contingency Day
D10: Ganzi-Chengdu
Itinerary
D1: Meet in Chengdu and drive to Ganzi
Altitude :3,300 meters
Today we will meet in Ganzi in extreme Western Sichuan where we will lodge for the evening at a local hotel. In the evening we will have a meeting to discuss the plan for climbing the mountain.
D2: Ganzi to Chola Mountain Base Camp (BC)
Altitude: 4,020 meters
Drive 1.5 hours from Ganzi to the drop off point for entrance to the mountain. From there hike approximately two hours to Base Camp. All personal and team climbing gear will be carried by horse to base camp, each climber only needs to carry a day pack. Tonight we will sleep in a four season tent.
D3: Chola Mountain Base Camp (BC)
Altitude :4,020 meters
A complete day to acclimatize at Base Camp. In the morning, we will take an acclimatization hike to help our bodies adjust. In the afternoon, we willreview our mountaineering safety techniques. Tonight we will sleep in a four season tent.
D4: Base Camp (BC) to Camp 1
Altitude :4850 meters
Today we will hike 5 hours from BC to Camp One. In the afternoon, we will go to the glacier to review climbing techniques. Tonight we will sleep in a four season tent.
D5: Camp 1 to Camp 2
Altitude: 5,350 meters
Today we will spend approximately 5 hours climbing on the glacier from Camp One to Camp Two. In the process we will cross several crevasses and rope up for safety. Tonight we will sleep in a four season tent.
D6: Camp 2 to Camp 3
Altitude :5,700 meters
Today we will spend approximately 5 hours climbing on the glacier from Camp Two to Camp Three. In the process, we will climb one of the two major ice faces on the mountain which will already have fixed ropes put in place by our support team. Shortly after dinner we will go to bed to have energy to climb to the summit in the morning. Tonight we will sleep in a four season tent.
D7: Camp 3 to Summit
Altitude: 6,168 meters
Leave at 2 AM for a 6 hour climb to the summit climbing the second major ice face along the way which will already have fixed ropes put in place by our support team. After reaching the summit, we will begin to descend and arrive at either Camp One or Base Camp. Tonight we will sleep in a four season tent.
D8: Camp One or Base Camp to Ganzi
Altitude :3300 meters
Today we will descend the mountain to Base Camp (or leave from Base Camp directly) and then hike 2 hours to the pick up point for the mountain. From there we will drive approximately 10 hours to Kangding where we will lodge for the evening at a local hotel.
D9: Contingency Day
If everything goes well in the mountains, we will have the entire day to enjoy and explore Ganzi. However, if we need additional time in the mountains due to weather, etc., we will use this as a contingency day.
D10: Ganzi-Chengdu
We are free to leave Ganzi and drive back to Chengdu at any time on this day. Customized Altitude 6000m Hike
website:http://www.urhike.com/hike-packages/altitude-6000m-hike/ |
